I will make this a short essay. Before I continue, I’d like to stress – again – that I am an atheist and that I remain an atheist even after the brief encounter I will now share with you. My aunt thinks I am spiritual but not religious. Am I spiritual? I don’t know. Aspects of old Shaivism attract me, as do the basic tenets of Sikhism, as does the foundation – and music – of Sufism.
A few weeks back, I rented a car and drove up to a town called Munsyari. Munsyari is in the northern reaches of the hill state called Uttarakhand, and if you cross the peaks that dominate the town’s landscape, you may find yourself in China.
We spent a few days in Munsyari, then drove to another town called Dunagiri. I had just half a day to explore the hills because it rained all the time. My friend stayed back at the hotel – his heel spur was bothering him – and climbed up the hill, where I met a sadhu, the priest of a tiny temple at the top.
We had a brief but fascinating conversation. Watch the video, listen to the VO! No spoilers from me!










